Hogenakkal Falls - The Niagara of India

Early March is normally not considered the best season to visit Hogenakkal Falls, but then for a trip with friends such things often don't matter. Known as the Niagara of India, this popular waterfall is located around 46 Kms from the town of Dharmapuri in Tamil Nadu and around 160 Kms from Bangalore. Exactly on the border of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, it can be approached from both sides. So it was kind of funny when we ended up on the Tamil Nadu side after a good scenic drive form Bangalore. It seems the boatmen here adhere to some dressing norms, the ones on our side were dressed in blue while the ones on the opposite bank were attired in yellow.

The name of the waterfall is derived from two Kannada words, hoge which means smoke and kal meaning rocks thereby translating to Smoking Rocks. The Carbonatite rocks at this site are considered to be the oldest of its kind in South Asia. At Hogenakkal, the river Kaveri drops and creates numerous waterfalls as the water cuts through the rocky terrain. The thunderous sound of water crashing down from over 60 feet is something to experience. After this point the river spreads out over a wide area of sandy beaches. With its fame for medicinal baths and coracle boat rides, it is a great draw for tourists.

Boating is a major attraction here. Coracles, locally known as Parisal, are round boats made of bamboo with the bottoms covered by hide or plastic, with a single paddle for steering. We chose a parisal ride and the boatmen took us on a ride through the gorge right up to the waterfalls. He even got the boat under one of the falls. It was quite exhilarating despite the risk of getting my camera drenched. Sitting in the boat, looking at the water and the sky, the great rocky walls rising up on both sides, the play of light on the water surface, the wind, watching patterns, don't be surprised if the tranquility gets you doing a Rodin's The Thinker. As per the boatmen, the water in this channel can be fairly deep, up to 100 feet in places. It’s not unusual to see shops on water as hawkers move around on parisals selling snacks and soft drinks.

One unpleasant experience of the ride is the strong smell of fish that stays with you for almost the whole trip. Fishing is quite popular here and you can get tasty freshly caught river fish deep fried and smeared in all kinds of aromatic spices at reasonable prices. The river water is also considered medicinal and hence many tourists prefer taking a bath post a rejuvenating oil massage. Special bathing enclosures have been created for safety while bathing in the waterfall. Alternately, one can even head out to the sandy beaches for some fun in the moderate currents. Evening, we found ourselves busy taking pictures of the waterfall as the sun gradually sank below the horizon. Almost, lost one of my lenses to a monkey who seemed quite interested in photography.

Courtallam - The Spa of South India

Located close to the Kerala border, Courtallam will give the feel of just another sleepy little town in southern Tamil Nadu. But despite the predominantly Tamilian population, you can't help notice the influence of the neighbouring state on the construction style of houses in the area. It is around 5 kms from Tenkasi, the nearest big town, and a part of Tirunelveli district. Owing to the multitude of waterfalls and cascades found in the area, Courtallam (or Kuttralam as it is locally called) has earned the title The Spa of South India. A booming tourist influx has spawned numerous health resorts in the area, a few even offering international standard facilities.

I was lucky to visit Kuttralam when attending a friend's wedding. The resort we were put up at was quite near the Main Falls. So we spent a good deal of time by this waterfall and had a leisurely walk through the small market on the way. A festive atmosphere all around, quaint little shops were selling a wide variety of wares, colourful and enticing.

One other popular waterfall we visited was the Five Falls. The water splits into five branches while falling. This seemed to be, by far, the most popular among the bathers. Most people preferred getting an oil massage before taking a dip in the waters. I was surprised to see police presence near the bathing sections but later gathered this is just a precaution to keep crowds in check during the peak season. I had a brush with officialdom when, much to my chagrin and slight bemusement, one of them walked over to me and said, "Either take a bath or go, why are you looking at the waterfall?"

Kuttralam also attracts the devout visitor. Many devotees clad in orange towels can be seen by the waterfalls. They take a dip in the waters before offering their prayers to Lord Kuttraleeshwarar.

Away from the hustle bustle of the city, Kuttralam is a great place to relax and unwind. Endowed with natural beauty, this place is also known as poor man's Ooty. A great place to visit during the monsoons, one must plan to get a soothing oil massage followed by a bath in one of the waterfalls.

Visit to God's Own Country Kerala - Wayanad

A longish weekend owing to Eid-ul-Fitr and Ganesh Puja. I only had to take one day off to make it a five day weekend. Perfect for a getaway from the hustle and bustle of corporate life. Wayanad, in God's Own Country Kerala, was the chosen destination.

True to style, we tried booking bus tickets at the last minute. It was just past the peak of the monsoons, but still not a recommended time for visiting Kerala. The state is known to get more than its fair share of rainfall. So we were quite optimistic of getting tickets. However, all the travel agents we visited had the same answer, "No tickets to Wayanad, sir!" Somewhat discouraged we were on our way back when I had a brainwave. I called up another friend to check if any tickets were available online. My friend was at work, but reported back in a few minutes that tickets were available in some private travels which we asked him to book.

The travel fixed, we had to come up with the itinerary for sightseeing. Wayanad as such, is a whole district and the attracions are scattered all around. Kalpetta, the district headquarters, was in the bus route. So we decided to set up our camp in Kalpetta. Once, the journey started, I realized we were yet to make any hotel reservations. The bus was expected to reach Kalpetta in the wee hours of morning when finding a hotel will be difficult. So another SOS call to more friends to get some info on local hotels from internet and send me the contact numbers by SMS.

We disembarked from the bus at Kapetta around 5 am and were welcomed by a light but persistent drizzle. I started dialling numbers from the list sent across by my friend. None seemed to have any rooms available. We managed to flag a passing auto and convince the gentleman to take us on a hotel hunt. After visiting almost all major hotels in the area, there was just one hotel left on our list. The auto dropped us outside the hotel and left. I will say one thing for the service here, the auto-wallas are pretty decent. They don't charge anything more than the fare value. This was very surprising to us, being used to the ways of auto-wallas back in Bangalore. Unfortunately for us, this particular hotel opened at 7 am while it was still 6 am. We whiled away the time watching the rain which had now worsened. It didn't seem to be a good indication for the trip. Whoever heard of treks and hikes with the rain pouring down. There seemed to be a temporary lull in the rain and I stepped out in search of a cup of coffee. After walking some distance and getting some directions, interacting with folks in a language I could neither speak nor understand, I managed to find a chai-walla who had his small shop under a makeshift waterproof roof. I managed to get under the roof and enjoyed my first coffee of the day.

Back at the hotel, we were in for another disappointment. There were rooms available but needed prior reservation. Trying to think out alternatives, I remembered the JustDial service launched in India a few years back. Deciding to give it a try, I dialled the helpline number and requested for hotel numbers in the area. The gentleman, at the other end of the line, had my name wrong, but did sent across a long list of hotel numbers along with their addresses. Looking through, I started crossing out all that we had already checked. And found one that we hadn't enquired yet. I guess, this was the start of our good fortune.

We found rooms in the hotel and checked in. After breakfast, we went down to reception and the friendly staff provided us with an itinerary and arranged a Jeep, complete with driver, for our sightseeing. The Jeep proved really indispensible as most of the roads in and around this place seems to be in dire need of repair. And the driver was very knowledgeable about the routes. We finalized on all the places we wanted to cover over a period of two days, after which we planned on travelling back to Bangalore.

As it turned out, the trip was a real success and will be memorable for several reasons. The scenic beauty of Wayanad is incomparable. It reminds you why this place, cradled in the lap of the Western Ghats, is known as the God's Own Country. There are majestic mountain peaks, placid lakes, awe imspiring waterfalls, lush tea gardens, coffee plantations and lovely forests. Some of these are wildlife sanctuaries where one can go on a safari while a few are totally wild and no visitors are permitted. There is also a very popular bird santuary for people interested in the feathered kind. It's also a trekker's paradise. The trek to Chembra Peak, the highest and most difficult in the area, is quite popular and promises a fantastic panoramic view of the surrounding countryside. Then there are prehistoric rock carvings and cave paintings in Edakkal Caves. Wayanad has it all!! Will be posting some more pictures of this beautiful place in another post.

Chimney Rock

Chimney Rock State Park is in Chimney Rock, NC, around 25 miles from Asheville. It's a short drive, an hour and a half from Charlotte, and as such quite a popular destination. It boasts of hiking trails of all skill levels, spectacular views, and a 404 ft waterfall, Hickory Nut Falls.

Its most notable feature is a 315 ft rock formation which resembles a chimney. It is accessible by elevator as well as a moderate hike. It provides a spectacular view of the park and the surrounding countryside.

The view is lovely in summer when one can see the lush green countryside for miles around. It also provides a good view of Lake Lure.

In fall, the scene is changed to a very colourful panaromic view from the rock. All the green is replaced by reds and yellows.

A man-made tunnel leads the way to an elevator that took us to the top of the rock. At the top we have a few trails leading up to Chimney Rock, Devil's Head, an overlook and the top of the falls.

The view from outside the restaurant at the top of Chimney Rock. In fall it presents a very colourful view.

Some more views of the surrounding areas in fall. This is the best time to visit if you want to enjoy the spectacular fall colours of Piedmont.

The stairs to the top of Chimney Rock. The US Flag flutters proudly at the top.

A shot from an overlook with the flag fluttering around in summer while the countryside is lush green.

Same shot taken during fall. The green is replaced by reds and yellows in the same view of the surrounding countryside.

It is a very popular tourist destination, both during summer and in fall. In summer people flock to take a swim in the cool water of Hickory Nut Falls while in fall the panoramic view is stunning. The number of cars parked will give an idea of the number of visitors to this park.

A short hike took us to Devil's Head which is a natural rock formation shaped in the form of a head. Guess erosion can do wonders with rocks.

At the bottom of the rock, another moderate hike takes you to the 404 ft waterfalls, Hickory Nut Falls. It is one of the highest falls I have seen in this area.

The Chimney Rock State Park is home to a lot of rare flora and fauna. Managed to capture some wild flowers on the trail.

The Hickory Nut Falls is a popular destination in summer. Many people prefer to cool off the summer heat by taking a dip in the cool waters of the pool at the bottom of the falls.

The waterfall is so high, I found it difficult to capture the full height at 28mm which is the available wide-angle for me. So I started taking portions of the waterfall instead.

The water was a lovely silky white and we spent quite sometime capturing multiple shots of the waterfall before starting on our way back to Charlotte.

Crabtree Falls

Having spent some quality time at Linville Gorge, the next destination on our itinerary was Crabtree Falls. Again it was Ela's idea. As always, it turned out to be a good decision. A moderate hike from the place where we parked the car took us to the waterfall. Truly exquisite, the waterfall is a photographer's delight. I just wish I had a wide-angle lens to capture this beauty.

The return journey was quite adventurous. We decided to step away from the trodden path and find our way back through uncharted territory. The forest floor was covered in fallen leaves and there were no trails or as much as an indication of the way forward. The trek was tough but thoroughly enjoyable. And we made it back to the car, safe and sound albeit completely out of breath.

Linville Gorge and Linville Falls

One week later, another nice warm October day. Late fall, but the bitter days of winter still a month away, or so it seemed. Too good a day to spend at home. So the four of us - Sandy, Ela, Pattu and I set out on a trip to the Linville Gorge. We were hoping to catch some fall colours. Being an experienced campaigner and a frequent visitor to the mountains, Ela did advise us to dress snugly. But none of us paid much heed. Sandy's Mustang was our ride for the occasion. It's a fantastic car, climbing up the mountain trails like a wild mustang riding over rough terrain. The first hint of cold in the air hit us while filling gas at a roadside filling station. It was a subtle hint , nothing much to be bothered about, and we moved on.

Reaching the town of Linville around noon, we opted for a sumptuous country meal before starting on the hike to the gorge. The trail we followed was moderate and well trodden by hikers over the years.

The trail passed through the woods which I agree were lovely, dark and deep. But somehow didn't remind me of any promises I had to keep.

At places, the trail was extremely beautiful, exhibiting the full splendour of fall. Colours of bright yellow and red adorned both sides of the trail.

We caught the first glimpse of water as we climbed down these steps cut into the path.

And then there it was!! Facing us was the Upper Falls.

The water flows through here and then disappears down a hole into an underground passage finally emerging on the othe side as the Linville Falls.

The Linville Falls creates a beautiful sight, the water from the waterfall crashing down to the rocky bottom. It creates a creek which flows down the Linville Gorge.

The mountain stream continues to flow down the beautiful gorge.

The view of the gorge is breathtakingly beautiful. We found it impossible to resist the urge to stop and devour nature's beauty. Sitting on the ledge, our feet hanging down over hundreds of feet of nothingness, it was exhilarating to say the least.

We had a distant glimpse of the peaks of Mt. Mitchell. It seemed to be getting the first snow of the season. Ela came up with a sudden idea insisting we had to drive to those peaks on the same day. It was too good an opportunity to let pass. We concurred. In retrospect, it was a great decision. But that's another story for another time.

On the way back to the car, I caught the sun once peeking through the woods.